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  FAQ: Tux Terminology  
 
 
Below is a listing of the tuxedo-related subjects we are asked about most often:
THE TUXEDO RENTAL PROCESS:
How to Rent a Tuxedo
About Tuxedo Rental Pricing
A Timeline for Ordering Wedding Tuxedos
Acquiring Measurements for Your Out-of-Town Groomsmen
Can I Measure Myself for a Tuxedo Rental?
Tuxedos For Little Boys
Size Scale Information
Are Tuxedos Available in Other Colors?
Should I Rent or Purchase a Tuxedo?
 
FITTING & STYLE TIPS:
Important Finishing & Fitting Tips
About Cufflinks and Studs
How To Fold A Pocket Square
Traditional and Contemporary Wedding Etiquette Guides
Black Tie Events: What To Wear and When
Tuxedos and Body Types
The Differences Between a Tuxedo and a Suit
 
LEARN ABOUT TUXEDOS:
See a Glossary of Formalwear Terms
The Most Common Lapel Styles
 
 

 

How to Rent a Tuxedo
That's a question we hear quite often. It's a very simple process really, but one that most people may not be familiar with. First, select your tuxedo. Second, choose your accessories. Third, visit us at WIllard's Formal Wear. Fouth, Pick up your tux, enjoy your event and then return your tux. {back to top}

About Tuxedo Rental Pricing
You won't find any tuxedo rental prices listed on our site! Why? Willard's Formal Wear Retailer sets their rental prices and policies based on their local market conditions. Tuxedo rental prices can vary dramatically from market to market. It would be impossible for us to post accurate prices on this website for each retailer. Many of our retailers run special, localized promotions and pricing programs to benefit the consumer. To get a specific rental or purchase price on a tux, click here to locate your nearest Willard's Retailer. Give them a call or send them an email to inquire about their rental prices. {back to top}

A Timeline for Ordering Wedding Tuxedos
3 to 6 months before the wedding
Visit their store to register your wedding and begin the tuxedo selection process.

2 to 5 months before the wedding
Select your Tuxedo and Accessory Styles with your Willard's Retailer and place your order. Contact any Out-of-Town Groomsmen you may have, and arrange for them to acquire their measurements locally. Consider sending an email with a link to our website showing your groomsmen the style they'll be wearing.

6 to 8 weeks before the wedding
Out-of-Town Groomsmen measurements should be collected and given to your Willard's Retailer. The Groom and any local Groomsmen should visit your Willard's Retailer to be measured and fitted for their tuxedos.

1 week before the wedding
The groom and groomsmen should visit your Willard's Retailer 2-3 days before the wedding for final fittings, adjustments and to pick up the tuxedos. Make sure that each person tries on his tuxedo before leaving the store.

The first business day after the wedding
Return the tuxedos to your Willard's Retailer. Late returns may be subject to a fee! Consider having the Best Man be responsible for this duty. {back to top}

Acquiring Measurements for Your Out-of-Town Groomsmen
Have your gentlemen visit an Authorized Willard's Formal Wear Retailer to be measured. If a Willard's Retailer is not close, a professional tailor or menswear shop is a good alternative.Once the measurements have been taken, have the Groomsmen send you the information. Once you have the information, deliver or send them to your chosen Willard's Retailer at least four to six weeks prior to the date of your affair. Your Willard's Retailer will pick up the tux ordering process from here! {back to top}

Can I Measure Myself for a Tuxedo Rental?
It may seem really simple to measure yourself for a tuxedo, but it's important to remember that it's next to impossible to acquire accurate measurements! An inaccurate measurement that may be off by only an inch may get you a tuxedo coat that's one or two sizes too big or small. It's best to count on your Authorized Willard's Formal Wear Retailer to measure you for your formal affair. They have been professionally trained in proper measuring techniques. {back to top}

Tuxedos For Little Boys
Every one of our Tuxedo Styles starts at boys' size 3. A few styles even start as small as a boys' size 2. If you're thinking of including a little guy in your wedding party as a Ring Bearer or Mini-Groom, we'll be able to offer a style in his size. Be sure to count on your Willard's Formal Wear Retailer for advice in fitting your little guy. {back to top}

Size Scale Information
Please contact us for sizing information. {back to top}

Are Tuxedos Available in Other Colors?
Let us answer that question by saying every tuxedo available in our rental line is shown here on our website. If a tuxedo is available in multiple colors, all of the shades will have their own image shown here on our website. If you aren't able to find a specific tuxedo color on our site, it may still exist or be available in the marketplace. We have the contacts and avenues to help you find what you want, so don't hesitate to contact us with your needs. {back to top}

Should I Rent or Purchase a Tuxedo?
It's important for you, as a consumer, to make informed purchasing decisions. If you are on the fence about renting or purchasing a tuxedo, click here to read a brief article. {back to top}

Important Finishing & Fitting Tips
You can count on your Willard's Formal Wear Retailer to ensure that your tuxedo fits properly before you leave their store. {back to top}

About Cufflinks and Studs
Cufflinks and Studs are generally worn with most formal shirts and may also be referred to as 'Formal Jewelry.' We receive a number of questions asking how to insert the Cufflinks and Studs into the shirt. The information below should be just what you need to properly wear your jewelry. {back to top}

How To Fold A Pocket Square
'Poofy' Style
For lack of a better term, we call this method the 'poofy style' of folding a pocket square.
To prepare your pocket square, lay it down flat on a table. Now, grab it by the middle and let the fabric bunch up slightly in your fingertips. Insert the pocket square straight into your tux pocket with the corners down. Straighten and 'poof' the pocket square a bit so it looks like the photo. Tug the pocket square to make it fill the width of the tux's pocket.

'Corners Up' Style
As its name implies, the 'corners up' method of folding your pocket square allows the corners to peek out the top! Again, place the pocket square flat on a table and pick it up by the middle. However, this time, insert the 'bunched up material' down into your pocket first. The corners of your pocket square should stick up and out of the top of the pocket. {back to top}

Traditional and Contemporary Wedding Etiquette Guides
The attire you wear for your wedding will depend largely on the kind of wedding you and your fiancee' want to have. The size of the guest list, how many attendants you'll have, the time and location of the event - all of these things will help determine how formal your wedding will be. There's a formalwear style for every kind of wedding, day or night, traditional or modern. {back to top}

Black Tie Events: What To Wear and When
When you receive an invitation that says: 'Black Tie'
If the event you are attending is 'black tie' and the invitation says the same, you are expected to wear a tuxedo. All guests invited to this function are required and expected to wear formalwear. However, this term does not mean you have to wear a black tie! Feel free to choose any color of accessories to complement your date's attire. When the invitation says: 'Black Tie Preferred' This means the host of the party prefers to see all guests in formalwear. You could wear a dark suit, but tuxedos are preferred.

When the invitation says: 'Black Tie Invited or Optional'
In this case, it is not mandatory to wear a tuxedo. However, you will probably see more tuxedos than dark suits at these affairs. Black tuxedos and white or ivory dinner jackets with black trousers are appropriate. However, dinner jackets should only be worn between Memorial Day and Labor Day.

When the invitation says: 'White Tie'
This term means you must wear black tails with black trousers and a white pique' formal shirt, bow tie and vest. This ensemble is known as the 'ultra formal look' and if your event calls for it, you should not wear anything else!

What to wear on a Destination Wedding or a Cruise:
Almost anything goes for a Destination Wedding... even a black tuxedo. Choosing vests with lighter colors is a wise choice. Our Stephen Geoffrey Alfresco is just one appropriate style that we offer. Many cruises will have a formal event when formal wear is appropriate. It may not be required, but it is suggested that you wear a tuxedo. Any black tuxedo will be suited for a cruise with the exception of tailcoats. Dinner jackets are great choices as well. If you have multiple formalwear nights on your cruise, consider a black tuxedo and a dinner jacket! {back to top}

Tuxedos and Body Types
Many women find that all men look better in a tuxedo. But contrary to appearances, not all tuxedos are alike. Subtle differences in jackets, collars and pant styles can be flattering or fatal, depending on your body type. Pick the tuxedo that's best for your body type!

Short and slender gentlemen... should look for single breasted jackets with long lines (it elongates the body). Selection of the right pant style is key, too. Double pleated trousers are a good choice for gentlemen with short, slender frames. And the perfect pant leg should always break slightly on top of the shoe and angle a bit downward in back. This body type can wear vests and ties in colors and patterns.

Short and stocky gentlemen... with athletic or muscular body types look best in tuxedo jackets with slim collars. The top button should fall at the small of the waist to give the torso a leaner look. Pants should extend as low as possible on the foot, angled slightly in the back to elongate the leg. Be sure to avoid too much of a break on the foot, otherwise the pant will look sloppy. Choose colorful vests and ties carefully.

Tall and husky gentlemen... with broad shoulders and muscular frames look best in shawl collar tuxedos. Jacket length is especially important. To determine a good fit, we suggest that the gentleman place his arms at his sides and relax his hands and fingers. His fingertips should touch the bottom of the jacket and his shirt sleeves should extend one quarter to one half inch beyond the jacket sleeve. The fit of the jacket may need to be just a bit loose to provide ease of movement. Also, gentlemen with thick necks and wide faces should avoid narrow ties and wing tip collared shirts that look constrictive. Instead, opt for a laydown collar shirt and bow ties. Choose colorful vests and ties carefully.

Tall and slim gentlemen... look well in just about every tuxedo style! Jacket buttons closed up high on the waistline look especially good and a high shoulder line is better than a natural one. Garments should be full, while still following the lines of the body, and trousers should have a higher rise with more of a break in the pant. This body type can easily wear vests and ties in colors and patterns. {back to top}

The Differences Between a Tuxedo and a Suit
A TUXEDO will be adorned with satin lapels, satin covered buttons and satin stripes down the pant legs. Pocket trims may also be satin covered. In addition, some tuxedos will feature special lapel designs that add interest and style to the tuxedo coat. It's these satin trimmings that make a tuxedo the only choice for formal affairs. Black tuxedos are typically tailored of wool and lighter colored tuxedos are usually made of polyester.

SUITS do not feature any satin trimmings at all. Suits are much simpler in design and feature a notch or peak lapel. Suits are also typically made of wool or polyester and are available in solid or striped fabrics.
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See a Glossary of Formalwear Terms

ASCOT (as-kot)
A cravat with wide square ends; secured with an ornamental pin.
BESOM (be'-zum)
Narrow welted edging on coat body above pocket lip.
BLACK TIE INVITED
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket is encouraged but not required. If not a tuxedo, proper dressy attire (coat and tie) is necessary.
BLACK TIE OPTIONAL
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket may be worn but is not required. Proper dressy attire (suit, not a sport coat) is necessary.
BLACK TIE REQUIRED
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket is required. Don't even think about attending without one.
BOUTONNIERE (boo'-t?-nîr')
A flower or small bunch of flowers worn in a button hole. From Old French, buttonhole.
BOW TIE
Standard formal attire. Wide array of fabrics, colors and patterns. Black is always the preferred choice. Available usually pre-tied with a neck band to wear on a wing-collar or dress-collar shirt. Be bold, buy a black silk tie that you tie yourself. Very James Bond-like.
BRACES
The English term for suspenders. Usually of the button-on variety but also available as clip-on.
CANE
A straight black cane with white tips on both ends. Traditionally carried when wearing "white tie and tails". Usually accompanied by white gloves and a top hat.
CONTINENTAL VEST (aka waistcoat)
A backless vest designed to accommodate varied sizes of men. Available in a wide array of colors and fabric patterns. With the exception of boys sizes and extra-large sizes, vest comes as a 'one size fits all.' Includes adjustable strapping at the back of the neck for length and across the lower back to adjust the waist.
CUFF LINKS
Traditional formal attire. Usually available in gold, silver, silver plate, gold plate, and nickel-plate. Normally coordinated with four shirt studs worn on the front placket of the shirt in lieu of buttons.
CUMMERBUND (kum'-er-bund')
A broad sash, especially one that is pleated lengthwise and worn as an article of formal dress, as with a dinner jacket. Worn so the open side of the pleats are up (as if to hold opera tickets).
CUTAWAY (aka morning coat)
Classic daytime formal attire that used to be worn only for events prior to noon. Now acceptable up until mid-afternoon, but never for evenings. A charcoal grey or black coat with a long coachman back. The front of the coat "cuts away from the button down. Worn with a dove grey or black vest, striped or pin-dot ascot, wing collar shirt, and either striped or nailhead pants. Black formal shoes or dress calfskin shoes are a must.
DINNER JACKET
Traditionally, for summer, white, off-white or Sahara tan. Panama weave, single or double-breasted, self-faced shawl collar dinner jacket with black formal trousers. Worn with a white pleated wing-collar or spread-collar shirt.
DROP
The number of inches smaller the trouser waist of a suit is than the coat. A size 40 regular suit, for example, usually has a 6 inch trouser drop... a 34 inch waist.
FEDORA (fí-dôr'-uh)
A soft felt hat with a fairly low crown creased lengthwise and a brim that can be turned up or down.
FOUR-IN-HAND
The simplest of neckwear knots to tie. Name comes from a coach being drawn by four horse in two teams, driven in tandem by a single person. Young blades took up the sport, organized into clubs and adopted the professional coachman's tie as a mark of distinction. A four-in-hand is a small knot for wear with a narrow-spread collar.
FULLBACK VEST (aka waistcoat)
Similar to a continental vest but with a full satin back like on a traditional three-piece suit. Usually found with an adjustable strap across the lower back to cinch-in any excess fabric. Available in as many as eight sizes.
GORGE
The seam on a coat where collar meets lapel.
HACKING POCKET
A slanted flap pocket on a coat. Rarely found in formal wear.
HANDKERCHIEF/POCKET SQUARE
A silk or satin fabric square folded in a variety of manners and placed in the outer breast pocket of a tuxedo. Does not have to match the vest but should complement the colors in the tie and or vest.
HERRINGBONE
Classic zigzag effect resembling the backbone of a herring. Achieved by altering the direction of a twill.
IRIDESCENT
Contrasting warp and filling yarns giving a two-color effect.
JACQUARD
An intricate, variegated, self-pattern weave with clear finish. Named for the Frenchman who invented the loom in the early 19th century.
LOW RISE
The difference between inseam and outseam of trousers. Several inches shorter than normal rise depending on the designer. Favored by the young and slim.
NORMAL RISE
The difference between the inseam and outseam of trousers. (Normal rise for size 32 regular, for example, is 10 7/8" (10 1/8" for 32 short and 11 1/8" for 32 long. Rise increases 1/8" for each increase in waist size.)
NOTCHED (NOTCH) LAPEL
Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam.
PAISLEY
A fabric woven or printed with colorful curved (amoeba-like) abstract figures.
PEAKED (PEAK) LAPEL
Type of lapel on which the top line slants up from the horizontal.
PIMA
Fine grade, long bred staple crossbreed of Sea Island and Egyptian cotton, developed in Pima County, Arizona.
PLY
One of the strands in a yarn, 2-ply would indicate that two strands have been twisted together to make one yarn.
PUMP
Type of low-cut, slip-on shoe for formal evening wear. Does not have laces or straps. Usually has an ornamental grosgrain ribbon bow in front. Made of patent leather or dull calf.
SHAWL COLLAR
An unnotched lapel with no gorge.
TARTAN
A plaid textile design of stripes of varying width and color against a solid ground, patterned to designate a clan.
TWILL
A textile weave in which filling yarns pass over one and under two or more warp yarns producing a diagonal rib.
TWIST
A yarn formed by twisting two or more strands together. Different colored yarns are often used for unusual color effect.
UNDERBASTING
The temporary sewing together of two pieces of fabric to assure perfect pattern matches. Threads are removed at final pressing.
UNDERPRESSING
Pressing on the reverse side of the fabric to mold it so it will retain its shape.
VENT
Slit at center or sides on the bottom of the back of a jacket or coat.
WELT
A raised double edge, strip, insert, or seam for ornament or reinforcement.
WINDSOR
The largest of the three neckwear knot styles. Worn with wide spread collar shirts. (Half-windsor is worn with medium spread collar).

WORSTED
A smooth, compact yarn form long wool fibers, used for smooth, firm, compact fabrics
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The Most Common Lapel Styles
Tuxedos come in three basic lapel styles: notch, peak and shawl. Choosing one that's right for you is merely a matter of taste. {back to top}

 

 
 
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